In this global village where Shangri Las and Four
Seasons can be found in most major travel destinations, the search for
authenticity often yields somewhat kitsch representations of tradition. Another
buzz word in travel is green-tourism but many resorts that claim to be
eco-friendly often fail to even scratch the surface of what it means to be environmentally
sustainable, which simply stated is to conserve resources, reduce wastage and curb
environmental degradation for future generations, and by doing so, foster
wellness for ourselves today.
It is in such a climate that BaanBooLoo in the ancient
city of Chiang Mai in northern Thailand stands out for traveler seeking respite
and a glimpse into a rustic yet luxurious way of life, when natural and built
environments harmonized because the art of building respected and responded to the
physical world.
The story of BaanBooLoo is that of Adisak
Sittichainate, who after a decade of working as a computer programmer in
Bangkok decided he had had enough of the rat race so he packed up his bags and
left for London to teach traditional Thai massage. During the summers, he would
return to his homeland with students who wanted to learn more about the origins
of Thai massage philosophy. It was during one of these trips home that he decided
to build his Home.
Chiang Mai for the uninitiated was once fortified. The
old part of town is still surrounded by a moat but only portions of the
defensive wall remain. BaanBooLoo is located on a typical residential plot within
the ‘walled’ city. Amongst its neighbors are double story flats and temples. A narrow
road that branches off the main thoroughfare leads one past a vegetable stall
and a sundry shop in mazelike fashion before arriving at the guest house
resort. And stepping into the bamboo walled compound of BaanBooLoo, a sense of coming
home to one’s own secret garden.
Adi built BaanBooLoo from ground up, literally. The
property occupies a fairly decent sized lot, over half an acre, and was concrete
sealed when he first purchased it. Life sprung up immediately once the ground
cover was excavated to allow rainwater to seep back into the earth and be
purified by substrata layers instead of running off to storm drains. Trees were
then planted before the buildings were sited resulting in organic structural forms
that also make for an intriguing composition of indoor-outdoor and garden
spaces.
At Baan Boo Loo, Adi has applied vernacular Thai Lanna
principles of natural ventilation by raising buildings on stilts 12’ above the
ground and leaving gaps between the floor boards so that cool air passing below
seeps through to take the place of warmer air that has risen to the high raked
ceilings. Guest rooms are also oriented to catch prevailing south winds and
employ small and large openings to encourage the passage of air through the
house. One of Adi’s own innovations that has water from an old well channeled
onto the roof to lessen heat buildup is an indirect way of cooling the space
below and also reduces the amount of heat released from the roof, a phenomena
known as heat island effect that contributes to an increase in atmospheric
temperatures otherwise known as global warming. The rooms have air conditioners
and fans as well but they mainly function as back-up means of cooling. Another
architectural feature that responds to the climate is the steeply pitched double
roofs which lessen the impact of heavy rains on the houses in addition to
giving them their signature look.
BaanBooLoo is constructed of recycled teak salvaged from
villages in the outskirts. Other building materials are either also recycled
and where possible local to reduce their carbon footprint. Keeping it local,
the herbs and other plants in the garden are native varieties used in Thai
cooking such as lemon grass and ginger. One of my favorite dishes prepared by
Om the resident cook, was a sticky pudding made with rice harvested from the small
organic rice field at Baan Boo Loo’s sister property across the lane. I also
took immense pleasure in the tea served with lime, mint and ginger from the
garden and my breakfast eggs from the chickens next door.
As BaanBooLoo is centrally located, shops and places
of interest are in close proximity. Late mornings could therefore be spent
exploring the city on bicycles provided for guests or on foot if one so wished.
Alternatively, one could practice yoga at the clubhouse on the sister property
where Om’s cooking school is also located. A perfect afternoon however, would
be to sit in the cool space under the house with a book or to lie in the
hammock in the shady scented garden with butterflies as companions.
The underlying theme of wellness extends into the
guest suites, each uniquely designed and furnished in traditional Thai style
with richly colored fabrics and hand carved furniture. Bright accents against
the warmth golden tones of teak combine beautifully to create an ambience both
soothing and intimate, and blooms from the garden bring a hint of nature
indoors. This palette is continued in the bathrooms with highlights of stained
glass and tiny fish in planter pots providing specks of color and movement.
Besides the guest suites of the main house, there are
the tree house and rice barn pavilions. We stayed in the tree house pavilion
which is like something out a book, and sitting in the balcony with a book was
like being a bird in a tree. The other pavilion is a refurbished rice barn also
raised on stilts. It is open on one side with views of the Doi Suthep Mountain
and partially to the sky yet very private and secluded. According to Adi the
experience of sleeping or bathing there is pure bliss. I will have to take his
word until a time I can return to BaanBooLoo – Simple House.
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